At this time of year, I am always looking for ways to use our hens’ eggs. In the spring, they lay with wild abandon. I deliver them to friend’s houses, leaving them without a note on their front porch, hoping they will find them and won’t step on them. And then I rack my brain for ways we can eat them – fried for breakfast, in an egg salad sandwich (I add sweet relish and capers and it is wonderful), deviled for an old fashioned appetizer, and in a frittata for dinner.
One of my favorite uses for eggs is to make an afternoon batch of popovers. A few years ago I invested in a popover pan and it makes the most beautiful specimens that easily pop out of the pan. I also don't have to fool around with small ramekins or the every other placement in a muffin pan. I like Julia Child’s recipe for popovers from Baking with Julia. It differs from this recipe – it has one extra egg and two tablespoons of melted butter. She suggests whirring it all in a blender and sifting out the lumpy flour. It takes about 3 minutes to make. The hard part is the waiting and not being able to open the oven while they bake.
And then, after the required 45 minutes in the oven, I open it, and there is this sheer magical little thing. It's amazing what a little flour, eggs, butter, and milk can become. I crack it open and the steam escapes. The center is filled with a semi-gooey, eggy goodness. With a little jam and some tea or coffee, it transports me to another place - much slower and saner than the modern world.
There is a local restaurant in Amherst called Judie's which is well known for its eclectic menu featuring popovers. It's worth a visit if you come this way.